L'absinthe by Degas 1876
The Drink of Paris
This
is the story a drink a drink that was once considered so dangerous that it was
banned in France and several other countries for many years. Absinthe or la
fee verte (the green fairy) as it is affectionately known became extremely popular
in late 19th Century where it was immortalised by impressionist artists and
writers around Paris who captured it in their work and consumed it in large
quantities. Absinthe is an alcoholic drink derived from several herbs including
anise, fennel and wormwood which has a distinctive green colour (the green fairy)
which becomes cloudy when water is added. The recipe for distilled absinthe
originated in Switzerland at the end of the 18th Century and at first it was
produced as an elixir or medicine by Pierre Ordinaire. The recipe was bought
out by Henri Louis Pernod in 1797 who opened the first absinthe distillery in
Couvet, Switzerland. Pernod and moved to a larger distillery in Pontarlier,
France in 1805.
Absinthe Makes the Heart Grow Fonder
By the middle of the 18th Century the drink
became so popular that Parisian cafés were holding green hours (l’heure verte)
at 5pm for workers to enjoy an absinthe after a day’s labour. It soon became
a symbol of decadence and bohemianism particularly in Paris and the fashionable
neighbourhood of Montmartre. Many Artists and writers of Paris considered ansinthe
a drink that stimulated creativity, Van Gogh, Toulouse Lautrec, Baudelaire,
Manet, Gaugin, Degas (who painted L’absinthe in 1876 which is now in the Musée
d’Orsay) and many others danced with the green fairy. It was also one of the
few alcoholic drinks popular amongst women at that time.
Too Dangerous to Drink
The popular tide turned against absinthe in the late 19th Century.It was blamed
for many social woes of the day and it was claimed that absinthe had a hallucinogenic
properties although there is no scientific evidence for this it may have indeed
gained a narcotic effect when other chemicals, or drugs such as opium where
added to the drink.
Horrible Murder and Ban
Then in 1905 a murder was committed in Switzerland that
stunned the world. Jean Lanfray killed his pregnant wife and children in a drunken
frenzy after. Absinthe was blamed and the drink itself was judged as being equally
culpable as the murderer even though Lanfray had only consumed 2 glasses of
absinthe in the morning while taking large quantities of wine and spirits before
the attack. A petition in Switzerland quickly gathered 82,000 signatures and
a ban followed. Soon after the drink became the subject of a ban in other countries
too; The Netherlands in 1909 the United States in 1912 and France in 1915
Available Once Again
These days if you wander into the bars and cafes in Paris you can, once again,
see people enjoying absinthe based drinks. It became common again from the late
1980s onwards when the European Law on drinks was applied in France. Technically,
however, the 1915 law has never been repealed but as the law only stated that
beverages that call themselves ‘absinthe’ were prohibited the French producers
get around this by labelling their drinks à base de plantes d'absinthe ('wormwood-based
spirits'). The laws relating to absinthe were repealed in most other countries,
except interestingly the United States where to this day it still cannot legally
be sold .
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